More than a thousand years ago, it was decided to create a path that would link all the villages of the Catalan coast, its beaches and coves and also allow fishermen to return without too much difficulty, in the event that their boats were wrecked around. Its name is one of those purely descriptive that are coined over time, Camí de Ronda.
Today, this path is a trail of more than 100 km. that runs along the entire Catalan coast, but has its high point on the Costa Brava, as it allows you to travel, in comfortable stretches, some of the most beautiful beaches of Catalonia.
We tell you everything you need to know about the Costa Brava so that you can travel it comfortably, from how to get there to the stretches so that you can make the trip to measure.
What is the Camí de Ronda?
What today is an idyllic coastal path between beaches was, for centuries, a service and surveillance road. First, so that fishermen could return home after a shipwreck. Later, for the carabineros and the Guardia Civil to control the contraband that entered by sea: tobacco, coffee, penicillin, perfume, sugar… products prohibited during the post-war period that entered discreetly through the most hidden coves.
Hence its name: Camino de Ronda, after the rounds made by the agents along the coast. And hence also the names of some coves that still retain the memory of that clandestine past, as the Cala del Tabaco.
Where does it begin and where does it end?
The Camí de Ronda is not a single path, but a network of coastal paths that are part of the GR-92, a long-distance route that links the north and south of the Catalan coast, from Portbou (border with France) to the Ebro Delta.
Thus, the Camí de Ronda, also called the Mediterranean Path, is about 130km. long linking all its sections. But you are not obliged to do them all.
The most popular and scenic part, and the one we usually associate with the Camí de Ronda as such, is the one that runs along the Costa Brava, from Blanes to Portbou, and it is a part of the Camí that allows you to walk it in sections, from village to village, making it ideal for a day, weekend or week-long getaway, if you feel like walking.
How to get to and walk the Camí de Ronda from Barcelona?
Getting to the Camí de Ronda is as easy as arriving at one of the towns along the Costa Brava.
Stage 1 starts in Portbou and goes to Llançà, it is about 10 km. and can be covered in about three hours, comfortably.
At the other extreme, stage 11 starts in Lloret to Tossa, it is 14 km. and is covered in about three and a half hours.
Obviously, you can start at either end or in any of the intermediate municipalities. From Barcelona, the easiest way is to get to Lloret de Mar by train and start from there, planning the stages as you wish. You can do one or two in one sitting, walk and then return by bus or sleep in the different towns.
How is it signposted?
Finding the way is very simple, it is almost always enough to walk along the promenades of the villages to the ends of the beaches, where the following signs begin to appear:
- Green and white: Local Path
- Red and white: Gran Recorrido (GR-92)
- Red and yellow: Small Route (PR-C)
The signs are well maintained and the route is usually intuitive. Of course, at some points there may be stairs, slopes or steeper sections. But also benches, viewpoints and even some unexpected sculptures.
The most beautiful (and accessible) stretches of the Camí de Ronda
These are some of our favorite stretches of the Camí de Ronda.
S’Agaró to Platja d’Aro
Perfect for beginners. Easy section, well preserved and full of viewpoints. Modernist houses, coves of golden sand and total accessibility.
Calella de Palafrugell – Llafranc – Tamariu
A trilogy of beautiful coastal villages, linked by a path that alternates forest, sea and paradisiacal coves. Ideal to spend the day between swims and tapas.
Montgó Cove – L’Escala – Empúries
One of the stretches with more history: it connects quiet coves with the Greco-Roman site of Empúries. Perfect for those who want culture as well as sea.
Tossa de Mar – Cala Pola – Cala Giverola
Medium-high level section with some climbs, but with rewards in the form of wild coves and clear waters. Wear comfortable shoes (and diving goggles).
Tips to enjoy the Camí de Ronda to the fullest
It is not necessary to walk all 130 kilometers of the Camí de Ronda to enjoy its beauty. The ideal is to choose a stretch that suits your pace and take it easy, savoring the scenery.
Wear comfortable shoes and swimsuit even if you start on a promenade, many parts of the trail cross rocks, stairs and dirt roads, so forget about flip-flops. Don’t forget your swimsuit: some of the most spectacular coves can only be reached on foot from the trail, and you’ll be glad you can take a dip. If you can, bring snacks and drinks, as in some sections it will be difficult to find places to buy anything.
Avoid the hottest hours. The tour is more pleasant in the morning or late afternoon, when the sun is not so strong. And finally, if you do a linear section, check beforehand the transportation options to return to the starting point: there are sections well connected by bus, train or cab.