Sometimes, to touch the sky in Catalonia, you don’t need to put on your hiking boots or carry an ice axe. Sometimes, all you need is a car, a motorbike or, if your legs are up to it, a bicycle and a desire to suffer and enjoy yourself in equal measure. In the heart of Ripollès, winding through the Girona Pyrenees, lies a stretch of asphalt that boasts an impressive title: the highest paved road in all of Catalonia.
We are talking about the climb to the Vallter 2000 ski resort, a mountain pass that is not only an access route but also a destination in itself. This secondary road, which begins after leaving the charming village of Setcases behind, rises with vertical elegance until it reaches 2,020 meters above sea level in the Pla de Vaques area. This is where the asphalt surrenders to the immensity of the Ulldeter glacial cirque and where the sensation of “thin air” becomes a palpable reality.
A cycling colossus with a taste of the Tour
For lovers of two wheels, Vallter 2000 is much more than a point on a map; it is a place of pilgrimage. Framed within the imaginary of the great European mountain passes, this colossus has been the stage finish on numerous occasions in the Volta a Catalunya, seeing the best cyclists in the world reach the summit. Its difficulty is no joke: it is a 12-kilometer climb with average gradients of around 8%, but with peaks that force you to get out of the saddle as your lungs search for oxygen that begins to become scarce as you pass the 1,500-meter mark.
What sets this climb apart from other legendary passes such as Bonaigua is its “dead end” nature. Here, the road leads nowhere but to the sky , ending at the station itself, which gives it a silence and peace that is difficult to find on other busier trans-Pyrenean routes. It is a pure driving experience, with hairpin bends that seem to have been drawn with a ruler on the mountainside.
A balcony overlooking the Mediterranean from the Pyrenees
The reward for reaching the summit is not only the pride of having conquered the highest road in the country. On a clear day, a magical phenomenon occurs from the top of Vallter 2000: the chance to see the Mediterranean Sea from the heart of the Pyrenees. As you turn your gaze to the east, the Gulf of Roses peeks out between the mountain peaks, reminding you that in Catalonia, the distance between snow and salt is just a breath away, a mere 2,000 meters of elevation difference.
The landscape surrounding the road changes dramatically during the ascent. From the lush forests that flank the Ter River, we move on to high mountain meadows and, finally, to the rocky and bare terrain of the glacial cirque, where the peaks bordering France seem to be within reach. Although summer is the ideal time to enjoy the views without the restrictions of snow, autumn paints the Camprodon valley with colors that make the drive one of the most Instagrammable in our country.
What to do and how to get there
In summer, the asphalt is the gateway to hiking suitable for all audiences. One of the easiest and most beautiful routes is the one that leads to the source of the River Ter, a short walk that allows you to see how the water that crosses half of Catalonia springs forth. For the more adventurous, this is the starting point for climbs to iconic peaks such as Bastiments and Gra de Fajol, where it is not uncommon to encounter chamois or marmots.
When winter paints the road white, Vallter is transformed into a playground that goes far beyond downhill skiing. If hurtling down the slopes at full speed isn’t your thing, the resort has one of the most popular sledding areas in the region, ideal for getting your adrenaline pumping without any technical complications.
In addition, the terrain of the Ulldeter cirque makes it a perfect setting for snowshoeing. There are marked trails for beginners that allow you to walk on the white blanket without sinking, and there are even night outings organized under the full moon to see how the light reflects off the snow-capped peaks. It’s the most leisurely and mystical way to enjoy the altitude.
How to reach the clouds from Barcelona
Getting to this corner of the Pyrenees from Barcelona is easier than it seems, although it does require getting up a little early. By car, the journey usually takes just over two hours. The most common route is to take the C-17 towards Vic and Ripoll, then follow the C-38 towards Camprodon and finally the GIV-5264, which passes through Setcases and begins the final ascent.
For those who prefer public transport, there is the option of the “Skibus” or regular lines operated by the Teisa company that connect Barcelona with Olot or Camprodon, from where shuttles operate to the resort during the high season. Either way, the trip up to Vallter 2000 is one of those getaways that reminds you that sometimes the best view of our land is just at the end of a road that seems determined to keep climbing.