Halfway between a Sunday hike and movie-worthy archaeology, Collserola hides corners that seem to have been swallowed up by the mountain itself. One of those places is the Tower of Santa Margarida, also known as Valldonzella la Vella. If you like to wander through the mountains looking for more than just a good view of Tibidabo, these ruins are a must-see to understand why Barcelona is a city built on layers and layers of history.
Although today we see only stone walls barely standing and a tower defying gravity, this complex was, back in the 12th century, the first home of the Cistercian nuns who would later settle on Carrer del Císter. But before becoming a prominent convent in the city, it was a small hermitage surrounded by silence and wild nature that still retains that air of mystery we love so much.
A medieval refuge among holm oaks
The curious thing about the Torre de Santa Margarida is that it isn’t a “clean” ruin. It’s a complex that combines an old church, a farmhouse, and the tower itself, all of which are listed as Cultural Assets of Local Interest. Getting here is like taking a trip back in time; the stones tell us that the original monastery of Santa María de Valldonzella was founded in this deep valley around the year 1237, fleeing the hustle and bustle (yes, even back then) of the Barcelona plain.
However, life on the mountain was not easy. Between the insecurity of the area and the harsh climate, the nuns decided to move closer to Creu Coberta. What they left behind was a structure that, over the centuries, became a farmhouse and, finally, the romantic skeleton we see today. It’s the perfect spot for those seeking the less polished side of Barcelona—the one not featured in travel guides but felt with every step on the damp earth of the mountains.
Hikers’ secret spot
To reach this movie-like setting from the city center, the most convenient option is to take the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat (FGC) to the Baixador de Vallvidrera station. Once there, take the path leading toward the Budellera area or follow the signs to the Vallvidrera Reservoir, connecting to a roughly 10-kilometer loop trail that will take you deep into Collserola to the monastery ruins.
If you decide to go, remember that you are facing a fragile heritage site. The beauty of Valldonzella la Vella lies precisely in its state of natural abandonment, a scene that reminds us that, no matter how much the city grows, Collserola always reserves a space for the wild and the ancient. It’s the perfect plan if you’re looking for a morning of relaxation without leaving the city, combining a bit of exercise with the pleasure of discovering one of those secrets the mountain refuses to give up.
