Sometimes Barcelona insists on pretending to be another city. It does so when you get lost in the narrow streets of Gràcia and feel like you’re in a village, or when you walk through the Eixample and the stately atmosphere reminds you of Paris. But if what you’re looking for is to teleport yourself directly to the heart of Lima without going through passport control at El Prat, you just have to head to a very specific part of the Born that until now was more medieval than Peruvian: the area around Plaça de Sant Pere.
In just a few adjacent streets, where the Born merges with the medieval history of Sant Pere Més Alt, the streets of Barcelona have surrendered to pisco sours and leche de tigre. This isn’t the exaggeration of a hungry writer; it’s a statistical andgastronomic reality. In this magical quadrant, as many as six Peruvian restaurants, cevicherías, and even cocktail bars specializing in pisco have turned this corner into the true epicenter of Peruvian cuisine in the city, rivaling any stall in Lima’s Central Market in terms of authenticity.
Plaça Sant Pere: the square with three Peruvian restaurants
What’s fascinating about this area isn’t just the quantity, but the variety of options that coexist right next door to one another. Here there’s no cutthroat competition, but rather a kind of ecosystem where each spot has its own loyal following. The epicenter of this “Lima tsunami” is Plaça de Sant Pere itself, where you’ll find Candela, a restaurant serving elevated Peruvian cuisine—classic recipes with a twist that puts a modern spin on traditional dishes.
Literally next door is Cevichería Nikkei, a spot that aims to emulate the small market cevicherías of Lima, where within a few square meters fish are filleted and limes are squeezed to create
You don’t have to walk much further to continue the route. In the same square, Los Bachiche also reigns supreme, a spot that champions Peruvian cuisine with a nod to Italian influence—one of the many variations of Creole cuisine born from immigration, in this case Italian, that arrived in Peru. Fresh pasta alla huancaína or milanesa with green tagliatelle (made with huacatay, that Peruvian oregano) are the best things you can order there (aside from their lunch menu, which is pretty much unbeatable in the area).
But it doesn’t end at the square. If you head up Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt, you’ll find Pisco Punch, which, as its name suggests, is the go-to spot where Peru’s signature cocktail takes center stage—perfect for pairing with any snack before or after dinner. Order, of course, their pisco sour, and if you really want to show off, order a chilcano—the pisco-based gin and tonic that Peruvians drink day in and day out (or night in and night out) in Lima.
To wrap up this journey, two more stops that confirm the route is real. First, Sr. Ceviche, a charming corner spot on Trafalgar Street where the Ecuadorian owner has decided to bring together all the ceviches of Latin America, from Mexico to Peru, creating truly refined Latin cuisine. The chef has spent several years at the restaurant perfecting the menu, and there are no false promises here.
Of course, there are ceviches from various countries (Mexico, Peru, Colombia…), with variations in the protein (fish, octopus…) and the accompaniments (corn, chili peppers, avocados…). But the real talent lies in the appetizers: Ecuadorian encocados, a delicious Lima-style causa, perfectly fried plantains, and exceptionally well-crafted tacos. We’re not usually fans of fusion cuisine, because it’s hard to master a single style well enough to pull off multiple ones at once, but we really loved Mr. Ceviche. Hearty and flavorful food, flawless dishes, and that joyful sensation on the taste buds when limes, cilantro, cheeses, and chili peppers have hit your palate, leaving it tingling for quite a while after the meal.
In the other direction lies Costa Pacífico. To get there, head to Plaça Sant Agustí Vell, one of the neighborhood’s most beautiful squares, where this Mexican cevichería is tucked away. For years now, it has been serving aguachiles and micheladas, turning nights in the Born into a little Caribbean fantasy.
And although ceviche reigns supreme, this microcosm offers so much more. Within these 100 meters, you can find everything from the most tender anticucho to arroz chaufa with that smoky wok-seared flavor that’s hard to replicate at home, or a Lima-style causa that warms your soul. And of course, the drinks. No visit to this area is worth it if it doesn’t end with an Inca Kola (that yellow soda that tastes like bubblegum and nostalgia) or a well-shaken pisco that leaves you wanting to wander those same streets again, but this time in slow motion.
