We’re fascinated by the impossible—by what defies our logic and our way of understanding things. That’s exactly why we can’t take our eyes off a magic trick or a natural phenomenon that seems impossible.
In the Bages region, just over an hour from Barcelona, we find one of those places. Guarded by a charming village that was once one of the most powerful on the Iberian Peninsula, stands the Cardona Salt Mountain, the only mountain in the world that grows with the rain.
A geological phenomenon that occurs because, as the water erodes the surface layers, the salt (which has a lower density) rises to the surface, breaking through the materials covering it. It’s a bit like a puff pastry cake that cracks open, revealing the cream filling inside.
This geological formation is exceptional not only because of the striking chemical phenomenon that causes it to “grow” with every rainfall, but also because visitors can explore the underground tunnels of the old mine.
Although only a section of the more than 200 kilometers of mining tunnels is open to the public. It’s well worth the visit for its incomparable landscape, filled with salt stalactites and stalagmites, and the unique appearance of its walls, characterized by the reddish hues and shapes that adorn them. These colors stand out especially in the“Sistine Chapel,” the largest and most impressive chamber in the entire diapir.
The mine ceased operations in the 1990s, but the economic impact of the salt flats dates back much further. The deposit was mined as early as the Neolithic period, and during the Middle Ages it became an almost inexhaustible source of wealth, although it wasn’t until the 15th century that Cardona Castle was built.
A monument considered one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the entire country. And, following reconstruction and maintenance work, it also functions as a four-star hotel. In other words, it’s possible to enjoy this palace not only as a tourist but also as a guest.
A Village Straight Out of a Movie
With a setting like this, it’s hard to imagine that filmmakers and artists wouldn’t have set their sights on this town: one of the most important films of Orson Welles’s career, *Chimes at Midnight*, was shot in Cardona.
The legendary director was enamored with Cardona Castle and chose this location—especially the Collegiate Church of Sant Vicenç —to recreate medieval England. Welles, who also acted in the film, always maintained that this was his masterpiece and that the only problem during filming was the winter cold.
And that’s another feature of this town that, in a summer as hot as this one, is more of a benefit than a problem: in Cardona , the lows in July and August hover around 15 degrees , making it a great option for escaping the heat.
Cardona is also linked to the world of cinema thanks to its most famous resident: Berto Romero. The renowned actor, TV host, and comedian is a native of this town, and his childhood home is featured as a point of interest on some sightseeing routes.
Hours, prices, and how to visit the Cardona Salt Mountain and Cardona Castle
To make your visit to Cardona easier, there’s a package that includes admission to both tourist attractions with flexible hours: the price is 21.50 euros per adult ( with reduced rates for seniors and children depending on their age) and includes a guided tour.
Individual admission to the Cardona Salt Mountain and Cardona Castle is 12.75 and 8.75 euros, respectively. However, the area outside the castle and the parade ground do not require a ticket, and admission is completely free at any time of day.
Finally, if you visit Cardona, you can’t leave without trying some of its signature products and dishes: vedella amb bolets or escudella i carn d’olla are dishes that, although more typical of winter, are well worth trying. The Bages region also boasts some wines of great tradition and quality, so we recommend pairing your meal with a DO Pla de Bages wine.
