There are corners of Catalonia where time seems to have stood still amid thick stone walls and the constant murmur of water. Far from the city’s hot asphalt, in a setting where nature grows wild and is home to more than a thousand plant species, lies a destination that is pure contrast. It is a place where the heat of these months is best combated by immersing yourself in unspoiled landscapes and crystal-clear rivers under the sun.
We’re talking about Arnes, a town in the province of Tarragona in the Terra Alta region that sits on a hill next to the Algars River, right on the border with Aragon. Surrounded by the Els Ports Natural Park, this town is the perfect getaway for the current summer season thanks to a two-fold appeal: on one hand, a historic center designated a Site of Cultural Interest, and on the other, a network of freely accessible natural pools and waterfalls that serve as an oasis for those seeking to escape the urban hustle and bustle.
A stroll through history among Templar portals
Walking through the network of cobblestone streets in Arnes is, quite literally, like traveling back centuries. Its medieval atmosphere is very well preserved, highlighted by four ancient gateways and the ruins of a castle that once belonged to the Knights Templar. Interestingly, today some of the old ashlar walls of this fortress have been repurposed and form part of the residents’ homes. Religious architecture also plays a significant role in the town, with the Baroque church of Santa Magdalena, built in 1693 on the ruins of an earlier Gothic church.
The civic heart of the town beats in its Town Hall, one of the earliest Renaissance buildings in Catalonia. Built in 1584 by Joan Vilabona de Queretes, it is an imposing structure with a covered market hall resembling a portico and a roof topped with cornices and gargoyles. Inside, it houses the Honey Interpretation Center, an interactive journey through the region’s deep-rooted beekeeping tradition. The tour of the town’s landmarks can be rounded out with a visit to the old Molí de l’Oli, now the natural park’s information center and a venue for temporary exhibitions, and to the Santa Madrona Chapel on the outskirts—a 15th- and 16th-century chapel whose exact history was lost in the flames during the Civil War.
A dip among rocks and waterfalls
But if there’s one thing that draws visitors in the summer, it’s the spectacular natural pools that form in the surrounding area. About seven kilometers from the town center, the Algars River gives life to the Toll del Vidre, a pool of incredibly crystal-clear water with a small waterfall between three and four meters high. You can reach it by car via a paved road to a designated parking lot, and from there, easily descend a flight of stairs to a rocky area perfect for spreading out your towel.
Another unbeatable option in the park’s surroundings is Los Estrechos de Arnes, an impressive gorge with vertical walls carved out by the Estrets River. The hike begins by leaving your car at the La Franqueta parking area and, after an easy and rewarding trail, ends at another fantastic natural pool of cool water suitable for swimming (it’s important to remember that, although you’ll see other pools along the way, swimming isn’t allowed in those). Since both of these spots are in the middle of nature and lack any amenities, you’ll need to bring provisions for the day and, above all, a good pair of water shoes to enjoy the water safely.
