There are weeks when Barcelona feels like a burden. Your body cries out to swap the glare of screens for the immense shade of the fir trees and the noise of traffic for the constant murmur of a river. When that urge to escape northward grows strong, inertia often leads many to look toward La Cerdanya. However, just a breath away from having to pay the toll at the Cadí Tunnel, Alt Berguedà has a trick up its sleeve: a wild escape, much easier on the wallet and just an hour and a half from home, where time seems to have come to a screeching halt and you don’t have to travel so many kilometers.
It is precisely in this setting, in the town of Guardiola de Berguedà and less than two hours from Barcelona, where you’ll find the ideal base camp for exploring the area. It’s Huttopia Barcelona Pirineos, a campground and ecotourism retreat that has just celebrated its 25th anniversary and has established itself as the go-to destination for those seeking to reconnect with nature through “glamping.” A space designed for “slow travel”—awarded the Family Tourism Seal—that lets you wake up in the middle of the forest without having to lug around the heavy gear of a tent.
A natural balcony with no tolls
Guardiola de Berguedà’s strategic location offers a glimpse of a spectacular landscape while saving you the toll for the Cadí Tunnel. Just a stone’s throw from this spot, attractions such as the medieval architecture of Bagà, the source of the river at the Fonts del Llobregat, and the fairy-tale-like Vía Nicolau route await.
If you’re feeling the urge to explore a bit further, the surrounding area is a treasure trove. Nearby lies Maçaners, one of those villages that instantly steals your heart, and the impressive cliffs of Vallcebre, a dramatic landscape that beckons adventure. But the real highlight is the Gresolet Viewpoint: a walkway suspended over the void, accessible via an easy trail, offering the most breathtaking panoramic view of Pedraforca rising above a sea of green fir trees.
Sleeping among the trees (but in a bed)
To remain in harmony with the natural beauty, the philosophy of the lodging is to blend into the surroundings without disrupting their magic. The main attraction is glamping, with options ranging from safari-style canvas and wood tents—fully equipped and ready to use—to wooden cabins with terraces offering direct views of the magical mountain. The entire grounds, where dogs are welcome, are embraced by lush vegetation and lulled by the ceaseless sound of the river.
The return of mountain hikes doesn’t mean you have to light a gas stove. The grounds feature a cozy bar-restaurant that has gained fame for baking artisanal, homemade pizzas, even attracting the attention of food content creators who visit the Berguedà. The rest of the afternoon can be spent reading by the pool, playing a game of ping-pong, or renting one of the electric mountain bikes available to continue exploring the region’s trails.
Although glamping is the star attraction, the campground still offers traditional campsites for those who prefer the purist experience of bringing their own camper van or tent. For them, there’s an open secret when making a reservation: it’s best to ask not to be assigned the sites numbered 1 through 7. Since they’re located a bit closer to the mountain road, you might hear some traffic noise, while the rest of the grounds guarantee the absolute silence of the forest.
How to get there
Reaching this pre-Pyrenean hideaway is a straightforward and pleasant drive. Simply take the C-16 highway north and stay on course for about 118 kilometers—a journey that, under normal conditions, takes just an hour and twenty minutes.
The key is to leave the highway upon reaching Guardiola de Berguedà and take the B-400 regional road toward Saldes; the site appearsexactly at kilometer 3.5. This route lets you find yourself in the heart of an alpine paradise while avoiding the toll and the Cadí Tunnel. For those who prefer to leave their car at home, there’s a direct bus connection (operated by ALSA) that runs from Estació del Nord to Guardiola de Berguedà in just under two and a half hours.
