There are plans that reconcile you with winter, and then there’s Caldes de Montbui. If you’ve ever been there, you’ll know that the town lives off its thermal waters, but what happens during the Mercat de l’Olla i la Calderina is out of this world.
Imagine a square dominated by the largest pot in Catalonia, a vessel capable of holding 1,600 liters of broth, simmering over a wood fire and, here comes the twist, with thermal water gushing from the ground at 74ºC.
This event, held on March 14 and 15, is not just a typical craft fair; it is a tribute to the history of a town that has steam in its DNA. Tradition has it that boilers were the livelihood of the poorest people in the 17th century, and today that community spirit translates into a popular feast where, for just a couple of euros, you can enjoy a serving of vegetables cooked in this mineralized broth.
The secret is in the water (and the fire)
Source: Caldes de Montbui Town Hall
What makes the Olla Calderina special is not only its size, but also the process. The chickpeas and lentils are not boiled with tap water, but with water from the iconic Font del Lleó, taking advantage of its properties and natural heat that seems to never run out. It is historical cuisine in its purest form. Walking through the historic center on those days is like wrapping yourself in a mist of steam and the smell of firewood that leads you straight to the tasting.
In addition to legumes, the market features more than eighty artisan stalls that keep almost forgotten crafts alive. You can watch a master basket maker or boxwood craftsman at work while you decide whether to go for the thermal broth or the “Olla calderina,” the star dish that is more popular than ever this year.
Beyond the giant pot
Source: Caldes de Montbui Town Hall
If the broth isn’t enough for you, the party continues at the table. Throughout the week, several local restaurants join the “Se’ns en va l’olla” initiative , adding special dishes based on this tradition to their menus. It’s the perfect excuse to discover the town’s heritage, from the best-preserved Roman baths on the peninsula to the Thermalia Museum, which explains why this corner of Vallès Oriental has been the area’s favorite natural spa for centuries.
For those coming with their families in tow, the plan is set in stone. On Saturday afternoon, Plaça de Can Rius becomes the stage for the puppets of the L’Invisible company, with their show “Volem pa amb oli,” ensuring that the little ones also get their dose of entertainment while the grown-ups finish mopping up their plates.
The market is open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Servings of broth and lentils usually cost around one euro, while a full pot costs two euros, prices that seem like they’re from another era but are intended to maintain the popular spirit of the event. If you decide to go, here’s a tip from the editorial team: arrive early, because when the aroma of wood begins to fill the streets of Caldes, the queues to try the “tastaolletes” are unforgiving.
