Walking into a high-end cocktail bar usually involves a familiar ritual: perusing an enticing menu, debating between a classic or a signature creation, and waiting for the bartender to bring a stylish glass. In the heart of the Eixample, however, there is a hidden corner where this process has been completely eliminated to transform the nightlife experience into something radically different. Upon crossing the threshold of the venue that stunned the industry by being crowned the best bar on the planet, visitors discover that the traditional rules of mixology and the short drink no longer apply in the same way.
The ones responsible for breaking these molds are Marc Álvarez and Simone Caporale, the creative minds behind the iconic Sips Drinkery House. With a career tied to Barcelona’s gastronomic avant-garde, they decided to put a new spin on their own concept by opening Esencia. The concept is defined by a premise that borrows the omakase philosophy of the most exclusive Japanese bars, adapting it to conceptual mixology. Those who manage to pass through the thick curtain dividing the establishment surrender themselves completely to the bartenders’ discretion, participating in what is known as a purely liquid tasting menu.
A personalized menu consisting solely of drinks
The journey unfolds in an atmosphere that evokes the mystique of old speakeasies, though with an ethereal and contemporary design conceived by architect Pau Llimona, a regular collaborator with figures in haute cuisine such as Albert Adrià. In this setting, devoid of traditional bars, a small group of just over a dozen diners sits face-to-face to witness a culinary display, attended by half a dozen waiters who serve a menu tailored almost exclusively to each guest.
The basic menu consists of a sequence of about a dozen micro-cocktails served one after another, priced at 65 euros per person, presenting challenges ranging from abstract names to presentations in custom-made tableware crafted by artisans.
The secret lies in asking. A good cocktail is all about balance. The trick is for all the preparatory work done with the ingredients to contribute to the final result, so the drink comes together perfectly. That’s why it’s worth asking about the fermentation processes, the cold and hot infusions, and the design of the concepts—which are what truly justify the price of the “shot,” as it’s often hastily and inaccurately called, that you’re drinking.
For example, the jelly inspired by Escoffier’s aspics, which encapsulates a cocktail based on the herbs typical of classic French cuisine. Next comes the Tokyo sequence, obviously inspired by Japanese cuisine, where we’re left with the smoked whiskey with homemade calamansi soda, a Philippine citrus fruit. Something like a deluxe Old Fashioned.
Next comes the “snow” sequence, featuring a cocktail that invites you to lick strands of pine covered in honey, followed by a sherry wine infused with boletus mushrooms (almost a broth—it’s marvelous), paired with resins and moss-based liqueurs. A forest in the mouth whose journey explains, once again, the price of the experience. Then comes the “oxidation” sequence, featuring a drink based on palo cortado, oloroso, and amontillado—a blend of sherry wines that speaks to maturation and oxidation, with a hint of hazelnut.
In short, the parallels between Esencia’s concept and the great temples of gastronomy are no coincidence. At Sips, they argue that the work in this space resembles that of a haute cuisine restaurant, where seasonal ingredients are transformed through complex techniques such as clarification or low-temperature infusions. The ultimate goal is to strip the cocktail of superfluous embellishments to focus solely on the combination of textures and aromas, making each small glass a self-contained and surprising experience.
To be part of the few sessions organized from Tuesday to Saturday at 108 Muntaner Street, the only way is to make a reservation in advance through their digital platform. Given the venue’s very limited capacity and the international reputation of its founders, slots are usually booked up weeks in advance by a crowd seeking to experience the night from an artistic, visual perspective, far removed from conventional circuits.
