Many know the Museum Mile in New York, which brings together the best museums in just one kilometer of travel, or Madrid’s golden mile, where in a few meters the most luxurious stores in the city are crammed. What many may not know is that in the center of Barcelona has formed a golden mile of sweets, a route of just a few hundred meters where we can find up to six of the most prestigious bakeries in the city.
On this route there are century-old stores, instagrammable cheesecakes, sweets that are like jewels or the best croissant in the city. All this in a tour of less than five minutes that strolls through the medieval streets of the Borne neighborhood and always under the watchful eye of the Cathedral of the Sea, the ideal setting for a walk where the sin of gluttony is the protagonist.
Jon Cake, the cheesecake that reigns on Instagram.
The tour begins near the park of the Citadel, in this pastry shop that only makes cheesecakes. Although it is in a small street the place is easy to find: just look for the queues that are always in front.
Although it opened only recently, Jon Cake already makes more than 600 cakes a week. His blue cheese, idiazabal or brie cheesecakes are a success that has a key ally in Instagram. Buying a creamy slice, taking a photo of it and then eating it on the way to the next stop on this route is already a more than usual postcard in the city center.
By the way, now, in Sant Pere més baix they have also opened Jon Cake & Coffe, the same, but with coffee and pastries.
📍 Carrer d’Assaonadors, 29
Hanai vegan bakery
Just a few meters away from Jon Cake we find this heavenly corner for vegans and celiacs -although not only for them-. Hanai is an “alternative” bakery where all their sweets are handmade, with high quality and whole ingredients.
They specialize in alfajores and have a varied and delicious offer, from dulce de leche alfajores with white chocolate to pistachio, hazelnut or tiramisu. In short, a real feast without allergens, preservatives or, as they themselves say, “weird stuff”.
📍 Carrer dels Carders, 28
Turrones La Campana, centuries-old sweets
We won’t have time for the coffee to take effect. Just 50 meters from Jon Cake and Hanai, there is Turrones La Campana, a candy store with 130 years of history. In La Campana they have been making nougat since the great-grandfather arrived from Alicante, the land of origin of this sweet, in 1890.
The store, with the same appearance as always, has a thousand anecdotes to tell and is a living history of the city. You can find out some of these anecdotes by asking the great-granddaughters of the founder while tasting the yolk nougat, which, they say, is one of the best in the city.
📍 Carrer Princesa, 36
Demasié, the cinnamon rolls that cause queues
We put the nougat in our bag for later, because the next stop is only three places away. Demasié is another place that accumulates queues at its door, this time to try the fluffy cinnamon rolls it makes and which are a hit.
Its dozens of varieties and that smell that announces its presence from meters before arriving at the place have made it an essential stop to pause and have another coffee (this one without sugar, please!) on this route.
📍 Carrer Princesa, 28
Brunells, one of the best croissants in the city
Although we have just finished our cinnamon roll, it’s time to go back, again, very close. Three places (yes, again) away from Demasié is Brunells, another sweet temple of the city. The bakery is another two hundred year old classic, which recently reopened after a time of decline, winning the award for the best croissant in town.
Its renovation includes a café reminiscent of Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Sitting at its tables, one can taste the traditional sweets that are made and see through a glass case how those award-winning croissants come out of the same oven that has been working for two centuries.
📍 Carrer Princesa, 22
Hoffman, the doyenne of sweets in Barcelona
We finished this tour without time to burn off the calories consumed. Walking two hundred meters we arrive at Hoffman, queen of gourmet pastries in the city. Their croissants have also won awards more than once, and understandably so. In addition to the classics, their showcases display those filled with mascarpone, chocolate or pistachio, which are pure gluttony.
But if you want to take the sweet to the next level, you can also try the designer cakes, real jewels, fine, delicate and delicious, an ideal finishing touch to this walk through the sin of gluttony.
📍 Carrer Flassaders, 44
Funky Bakers
Not everything is bad in Pg. del Born and Funky Bakers is an example of what is salvageable: breakfasts, quality pastries and, although somewhat touristy, a haven of good pastries in the area.
📍 Pg. del Born, 10
The last bite can be taken on the way to the cathedral of Santa Maria del Mar, right next door, to make room, atone for sins and ask for forgiveness (or not), because we will surely return another day to sin.